Shopping for skincare is both fun and overwhelming. Sometimes it’s hard to know if you’re choosing good products or the correct ones for your skin type. I made this guide to help you make the best choices for your skin!

scrub me secret: I want everyone to read the back of their skincare packaging. any ingredients and adjectives listed on the front of the package or outside the ingredients label will not give you the full picture of your product. when purchasing skincare you should be checking the ingredients before making a purchase.

Choose ingredients that fit your skin type:

Start off by deciphering what type of skin you have or a skin condition that you would like to address, like dryness, acne, etc. Then, choose a product that has ingredients that will help you treat your specific skin. Below I’m listing some ingredients you’d like to see on the product label based on your skin type or skincare needs.

scrub me secret: some products use certain buzz words to advertise their products. you’ll see adjectives like “skin firming”, “skin brightening”, “breakout clearing” displayed in large, bold letters on products. really these words are just there to name or describe the product. They don’t reflect how effective the item actually is. You’ll want to check your label to decipher if it’s a good product.

Ingredients to look for in skincare:

Below I’m listing some of the main ingredients that, in my experience as an esthetician, have shown the best results for treating these specific skin types/conditions. You are certainly not limited to these ingredients only.

for Acneic Skin:

AHA’s: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Mandelic Acid are all common forms of Alpha Hydroxy Acids used in skincare. These acids gently dissolve dead skin cells and loosen debris in the pores. Lactic acid specifically helps the skin produce more natural moisture so it’s helpful for those who are easily dried out from exfoliating products.

Benzoyl peroxide: This clinical, bacteria-fighting ingredient is specifically good for treating whiteheads and cystic acne. It’s helpful for killing bacteria living in those types of breakout. I generally like benzoyl peroxide in an acne spot treatment or facial wash.

CBD: Products infused with 30+mg of CBD are effective for minimizing redness and puffiness. This is great for treating inflamed breakouts or post-inflammatory pigmentation.

You can read this blog post where I go over CBD in skincare in more detail. Or this post that has some of my go-to CBD product recommendations.

Calendula: This healing flower works amazingly for healing the skin. Calendula can be infused into skincare or skincare may contain calendula extract. I use this item in my clarifying facial treatment bar.

for Sensitive skin:

Oats: Oats in skincare is one of my favorite things. I’ve found that both oats and colloidal oats (oat powder) are super effective for calming skin and minimizing

Aloe: Aloe juice and aloe leaf extract are soothing, calming, and slightly firming skincare ingredients that are really helpful for sensitive skin.

Lactic acid: This is the most gentle of the exfoliating acids and helps the skin produce natural moisture. It’s a good choice for sensitive skin types that are looking for a chemical exfoliation product.

CBD: Products infused with CBD are very effective for treating redness. I like CBD in toners and lotions. My best CBD product recommendations is a popular blog post of mine.

See the lower section called “red flags on your ingredient label” for more information about what could irritate sensitive skin.

for Oily/Congested skin:

BHA’s: Salicylic acid and willow bark are common forms of Beta Hydroxy Acids you will see in skincare. These ingredients are specifically good for controlling and reducing oil production.

Clay: This oil-absorbing ingredient is another way to minimize and control oils. It can also help draw impurities from the pores. I’ve found clay is best for spot treatments or masks.

Witch hazel: This astringent ingredient is distilled from the bark and leaves of a witch hazel plant. It’s gentle enough for daily use and also helps control oil production and helps keep pores tight/

for Dry and/or aging skin:

Hyaluronic acid: This ingredient is actually naturally abundant in our body’s connective tissue. Hyaluronic acid helps to hydrate and bind moisture to the skin. Unlike Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids hyaluronic acid works on keeping the skin hydrated vs. turning over cells.

Bakuchiol: A plant-based, more gentle version of retinol. This ingredient has properties that stimulate collagen and elastin production, strengthen the skin, and smooth fine lines. Since this ingredient is so gentle it can be used daily. I talked about this ingredient in my “Retinol alternatives” blog post.

Antioxidant fruit, berry, or rose extracts: Examples of something like this would be red raspberry seed, mango seed, grapeseed, goji berry, avocado, the list goes on! There are so many different kinds of fruit extracts and oils that are packed with age fighting, skin rejuvenating antioxidants, and vitamins. I really love skin essences, moisturizers, serums, and masks that contain these antioxidants. Some of my favorite products have multiple fruit and berry ingredients. You can find some of them listed in my “5 Skincare products to splurge on” blog post.

Shea: shea is rich in vitamins A, E, and F; these vitamins fight aging, protect the skin, and soften it. Shea is non-pore clogging so it makes it a great ingredient for facial moisturizers and masks.

Vitamin C: In my opinion, everyone with every type of skin can benefit from a well-formulated vitamin C product but vitamin C is most beneficial for preventing aging and brightening skin. I think vitamin C is best when used in a form of a serum. It’s important to choose the correct form of vitamin C, not all vitamin C products are effective or beneficial for your skin. Here is a list of what I look for in a vitamin C serum: L-ascorbic Acid (this is the most stable potent type of vitamin C), Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Glucosamine

scrub me secret: retinol is a potent, clinical ingredient that can be helpful for both acne and aging skin. it has the ability to increase cell turnover, which both stimulates collagen and elastin and minimizes cystic breakouts. Though this seems like a miracle item, retinol can be very sensitizing and tricky to incorporate into your skincare routine for a few reasons. always consult your esthetician or dermatologist before starting to use a product with retinol.

for Dull or uneven tone:

Hyaluronic acid: Having skin that is healthy and hydrated will give it an overall glow instead of looking dull. Hyaluronic acid helps to bind moisture to the skin. A hyaluronic acid serum can penetrate deeply into your skin and help it stay hydrated.

Niacinamide: Vitamin B3, otherwise known as niacinamide is really effective for evening out skin tone. This means it helps fade and reduce redness, brightens pigment caused by UV or inflammation, and helps to fade small blemishes. I like niacinamide in cleansers, serums, moisturizers, and masks.

Vitamin C: Daily use of vitamin C underneath your SPF is a great way to both prevent pigment from sun damage and brighten skin overall. I think vitamin C is best when used in a form of a serum. It’s important to choose the correct form of vitamin C, not all vitamin C products are effective or beneficial for your skin. Here is a list of what I look for in a vitamin C serum: L-ascorbic Acid (this is the most stable potent type of vitamin C), Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Glucosamine

AHA’s: Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Mandelic Acid are all common forms of Alpha Hydroxy Acids used in skincare. These acids gently dissolve dead skin cells and loosen debris in the pores. Incorporating an AHA into your skincare routine a few times a week helps to brighten skin and give it a glow. Lactic acid specifically helps the skin produce more natural moisture so it’s helpful for those who are easily dried out from exfoliating products.

scrub me secret: my blog posts like “Tips to Optimizing your at-home skincare routine.” and “Skincare layering-the proper order to apply your facial products.” have really detailed tips and product recommendations if you need help putting together a great skincare routine at home.

🚩Red flags on your ingredients label-

These are red flags I look for when reviewing a skincare product ingredient label. If I spot anything like this on the label then I usually suggest skipping the product and choosing something different.

🚩Benzyl alcohol:

This is an ingredient that is added for fragrance masking properties and is also used as a preservative. It is known to cause atopic dermatitis or skin irritation.

🚩Fragrance or perfume:

These are man-made, synthetic additives that mimic essential oils or other scents. These do not have properties to aid in skin health like essential oils, they are strictly for scent. Fragrance oils and perfumes contain a long list of various skin-irritating ingredients that are not disclosed to us as consumers.

🚩MIT (methylisothiazolinone):

A commonly used, bacteria-killing preservative. It is a known skin irritant and can also be toxic to the body.

🚩Propylparaben:

A paraben is used in face lotions, cleansers, and other self-care items. This is known to be agitating to sensitive or sensitized skin.

scrub me secret: parabens are a group of man-made ingredients that are used in skincare as a preservative. there are a few different kinds of parabens and some are even used to preserve processed foods. parabens are deemed safe in small amounts by the FDA but have been known to cause skin and health issues.

🚩Propylene Glycol:

A common ingredient in skincare items and some food. This chemical is used to help water-based products retain some of their moisture and texture. In our skincare practice over the years we have found that this is a skin irritant for many.

🚩Lanolin and/or mineral oil:

This ingredient is a wax/oil found in a number of moisturizing and conditioning products. Since this product is derived from wool it is known to be a common skin irritant for some.

This is just a super small list of ingredients we see a lot in skincare products. Here is a great list that includes names of more parabens and other skin-irritating ingredients. https://www.psico.com/sensitive-skin-care/chemical-irritants/

🚩An insanely long list of ingredients that you don’t recognize:

This brings up areas of concern because the more ingredients that are in the product the more chance that there are items like emulsifiers, heavy preservatives, and other ingredients that aren’t really doing much for your skin’s health. A lot of ingredients are put in products to help the smell and texture of the skincare item. If the list is super long with a lot of items you aren’t recognizing then we suggest not purchasing that product.

You’re definitely not going to recognize some items listed on your label, especially since items are listed under scientific names but just use your best judgment with this rule.

Are you feeling more prepared for the next time you go skincare shopping? I hope so! If you still have questions or feel like you need some extra guidance, use my scrub-me-secrets blog as a tool to gain some more skincare info. Or you have the option to come to visit me at my Chicago skincare studio for a complimentary facial consultation so I can help you choose some great items for your skin.