Don't pop that pimple - do this instead.
When a large or unexpected breakout pops up we want it gone, FAST! Picking at and trying to pop a new, very visible breakout may seem like the best choice; most of the time popping that pimple ends up making things look and feel much worse. This is the go-to advice I give to all my facial clients for treating pimples and cystic breakouts.
scrub me secret: a cystic breakout feels like a swollen mass underneath your skin that can be tender or painful. a cystic breakout consists of impacted cells, debris, and bacteria in a pore. trying to pop a cystic breakout can cause the bacteria to spread underneath the skin and make new breakouts.
How to get rid of a pimple asap:
Spot treat your pimple with an anti-inflammatory product.
The first thing we want to do is take away redness and swelling around the pimple. This way it will be less visible and more manageable. I really like spot-treating with hydrocortisone or colloidal oats. 1% hydrocortisone is something typically used for bug bites but when a small amount is applied to a larger or really red pimple it helps take away the inflammation. Colloidal oats are also one of my favorite anti-redness ingredients. Colloidal oats are just very finely ground oats; when applied to inflamed skin they help reduce redness.
Let this product take effect for 20+min before moving on to the next step.
Spot treat your pimple with a detoxifying product.
After reducing redness and inflammation around your breakout it’s time to target bacteria and debris. Spot treating with a detoxifying product can help loosen up congestion or pull it closer to the skin’s surface. Doing this will help decrease the length of time you have the pimple for. I like using activated charcoal, clay, or sulfur products for this spot treatment. Scrub me oil clearing mask, PCA detoxifying mask, and Murad clarifying mask.
Let this spot treatment sit on for 10-15min before removing with a lukewarm, wet cloth.
Spot treat your pimple with a bacteria-killing product.
A bacteria-killing spot treatment will be a product you apply and leave on for the entire day or evening. Tea tree oil is a nice plant-based option for bacteria-killing spot treatment. I do not recommend applying a straight essential oil to your skin, this could cause damage. Find a spot treatment product that contains tea tree oil. Eminence Organics clear skin target treatment is a good choice. Benzoyl peroxide is a great clinical skincare ingredient for killing bacteria. I personally like to treat whiteheads and cystic breakouts with benzoyl peroxide. PCA acne cream and Glossier zit stick are two spot treatments I find to be really effective.
Use a cooling roller (or facial globes) as your final step.
One final inflammation-fighting step! Rolling a cold jade roller, cooling facial roller, or cold facial globes over your face helps constrict blood vessels that cause redness. Roll your facial tool from the inside of your face, outwards.
scrub me secret: in my blog post, “Esthetician recommended facial tools” you can find links to both a jade roller and cooling facial globes you can order online.
How to fade acne scarring (post-inflammatory pigmentation):
Sometimes after an inflamed pimple or breakout works its way out of the skin there is a discolored mark left behind. This is called post-inflammatory pigmentation. Post-inflammatory pigmentation is a common thing that happens to many different skin types. Sensitive skin types are most prone to experiencing these markings. These are my best tips for fading these pigmented spots.
Spot treat your scar or pigment with gentle retinol in the PM.
When used correctly, retinol can be really beneficial because of its ability to increase cell turnover. Using gentle retinol in the evenings 3-4x a week as a spot treatment to your pigmented areas will help fade away the discoloration. A product like this can cause photosensitivity and skin sensitization so this is why it’s important to use it sparingly and in the PM only. I like both Sunday Riley Luna oil and Arcona PM blemish lotion for spot treating post-inflammatory pigmentation.
scrub me secret: in some situations, retinol cannot be used. Extreme skin sensitivity and pregnancy are two instances where retinol can’t be used to treat the skin. Bakuchiol is a non-toxic, plant-based ingredient that has results that are similar to retinol products. In my blog post “Retinol Alternatives” I highlight bakuchiol and other alternatives to retinol.
Use both vitamin C and vitamin B³ serums daily.
Both vitamin C and niacinamide (vitamin B³) help improve, and even out our overall complexion. Vitamin C serums protect skin from further damage while providing brightening benefits. I really love PCA vitamin C&E serum. I have also heard rave reviews about MAELOVE glow maker serum. Niacinamide products help reduce redness and smooth overall complexion; this is really important for those post-inflammation marks. A few products with niacinamide that I would recommend are The Ordinary niacinamide 10%, PCA B3 brightening serum, and Acure super soothing SPF.
These vitamin C and B³ serums will give you your best result when used in your AM skincare routine.
Protect your hard work with SPF.
UVA and UVB rays from the sun can cause this pigment or acne scarring to stick around for longer or become darker. Applying a daily SPF of 30+ will increase your chances of fading any pigmentation quickly. Sun protection should be a daily habit!
scrub me secret: having a combo of vitamin A, vitamin B³, and vitamin C products in your skincare routine can help even out and brighten your overall complexion. read my blog post “Understanding Vitamins A, B³, and C in skincare” to get some in-depth information about these ingredients.
I have one final esthetician tip to leave you with today. Make sure you’re not mistaking sensitivity bumps or sensitivity “breakouts” for pimples or acne. Sometimes skin can become overly sensitized from products and have a reaction that looks like acne or pimples but should not be treated as such. Check out my blog post “Treat and reset your sensitized skin.” before choosing the best way to treat your skin. Enjoy these insider esthetician tips!