At the beginning of the year, I did some skincare projections for 2024. On my list, I wrote that we would start seeing more PHAs in skin care products and professional facial treatments. PHAs are some of the most gentle exfoliating acids and do not create skin issues like redness, flaky skin, or small breakouts. With more and more people introducing retinol products into their skincare routines (retinol is trending all over the internet), I think we are going to want to find ways to exfoliate our skin without throwing off our sensitive skin barrier and causing sensitivities. So let’s learn all about PHAs!

PHA’s Explained

PHAs, or Polyhydroxy Acids are exfoliating acids that gently treat our skin. These acids are similar to ingredients like lactic acid and glycolic acid only they are more gentle on our skin. A PHA molecular makeup makes it a more gentle exfoliating ingredient for our skin vs. the AHAs I just mentioned. A molecule of a PHA is bigger than an AHA molecule meaning that it doesn’t travel deep into the skin as quickly. Because these PHA molecules are released into our skin at a slower rate they are more gentle on our skin.

Beyond gentle exfoliation, PHAs also have humectant properties meaning they help our skin retain moisture. PHAs are also great for maintaining the health and strength of our skin’s outer layer. Common ingredient names of PHAs are gluconolactone, galactosen, and lactobionic acid.

PHAs can reduce the appearance of and eliminate pigment caused by breakouts without making your skin flake or peel.

scrub me secret: In the treatment room, there is a professional liquid exfoliation product I like to use on my clients who have goals of more even-looking skin, healthier skin barrier, or reduction of pigment caused by acne. This product is a blend of lactic acid, a PHA called gluconolactone, and a small amount of salicylic acid. The blend of these acids gives the product the ability to resurface and clear skin without making it red, sensitive, or flaky.

Is a PHA Good For My Skin Type?

PHA’s for dry skin:

A skincare product containing a PHA would be an excellent choice for dry skin types. A PHA can gently remove dead skin cells, keep moisture in the skin cells, and brighten any areas that look dull. Dry skin types can confidently use a PHA product daily without overdrying or irritating their skin.

PHA’s for acneic skin:

A skincare product containing PHAs can be a nice addition to an acne care routine. While PHAs don’t provide oil control or bacteria reduction they can help the skin maintain a healthy barrier so it doesn’t become flaky or blotchy from using other skincare items that do treat acne pustules. If you have an acneic skin type I would suggest adding a skincare item containing PHAs to a routine that already has items with benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. Always consult your dermatologist or esthetician before adding items to your acne care routine.

scrub me secret: benzoyl peroxide is an ingredient that targets bacteria in the skin and creates an environment where the bacteria cannot live and grow. This is really helpful for larger whiteheads and cystic acne. Salicylic acid is helpful for oil control and debris build-up. Salicylic acid is better for treating excess oils, blackheads, and closed comedones.

PHA’s for oily skin:

For skin types that produce a lot of oil, we usually look for skincare with salicylic acid, willow bark, witch hazel, as well as foaming cleansers. Sometimes when someone with an oily skin type has too many oil-clearing skincare items in their skincare routine their skin can become unbalanced. When an oily skin type is unbalanced you might feel like your skin is having an overproduction of oils midday, hours after your AM skincare routine. Or you might go to bed feeling great and wake up slick with oil. This is because when we take away all of our skin’s oils and don’t balance it correctly it can make our body feel like it needs to produce more oils in our skin to make up for what we have stripped.

If you have an oily skin type and your skincare routine contains more than a couple of items containing salicylic acid (ex: SA cleanser, SA toner, SA serum) and you’re still struggling with your skin feeling combination or unbalanced you can try switching out one of those salicylic items for something that has a PHA instead. This is a way to help your skin retain a little more moisture while still clearing debris. This might be the fix your skin needs to feel more even and less oily.

PHA’s for pigment spots:

Having a PHA product in your skincare routine can help your other brightening products work their best. A PHA product can be used on a daily basis (or every other day) to create gentle cell turnover. This keeps dead skin cells from collecting; overall making your skin appear more luminous and also helping your other skincare products penetrate deeper into your skin layers. For example, use a toner with a PHA before you use a brightening serum to treat pigment and discoloration spots.

scrub me secrets: pigment spots caused by sun damage and pigment caused by hormonal fluctuations is really difficult to remove completely. In my experience as an esthetician I have found that we get the best results when we pair professional treatments like a chemical peel or laser with at home brightening skincare products. I suggest working with a trusted esthetician or dermatologist if your goal is clearing pigmentation.

Skincare Products with PHA

PHA Cleanser

A PHA cleanser has super gentle exfoliating properties to give your skin a clean, bright, and clear feeling without overstripping your skin’s barrier or making your skin sensitive. I would recommend this cleanser for someone with congested, pigmented, oily, or acneic skin. Use once daily.

PHA Fluid

A gentle exfoliating fluid that is helpful for so many different skin types! Using a PHA toner once daily after cleansing and before applying serums and facia lotion can help skin feel softer, brighter, and more even. The next time you need to replenish your current exfoliating fluid or clarifying toner try this PHA toner.

PHA Serum

A PHA serum is a product that can be added to your skincare routine if you’re looking for an item that provides gentle exfoliation and skin-clearing results. If your skin is feeling dry, dull, or like it has buildup then a PHA serum would be a nice addition to your AM or PM routine. You will want to use once daily or every other day.

scrub me secret: polyhydroxy acids do not make our skin photosensitive. Meaning using a product that contains PHAs won’t cause our skin to be extra sensitive to the sun like a retinol or glycolic acid would. This is why it’s okay to use PHA products morning or night.

PHA Mask

I love this mask! I listed this product in my blog post article I wrote about my favorite facial masks. The blue tansy mask contains a blend of AHA’s, salicylic acid, and PHA gluconolactone. The blend of these acids makes for a dynamic mask that helps skin feel clearer and smoother but not irritated. Over time using this mask consistently every week can help pores appear less visible and texture look and feel smoother.
The best way to incorporate a mask into your skincare routine is in the evening after cleansing and before applying serums and moisturizers. I like to use a mask every 7-10 days.

Are there any products or professional facial treatments containing PHA’s that you absolutely love? Share with us in the comments!

PHA's: A Gentle Yet Surprisingly Effective Exfoliating Acid