Retinoids: Retinol, Retin-A, Retinal
What is a retinoid? And how is it different from popularly known retinol and other products with similar names? Retinoid is actually an umbrella term for these vitamin A-rich products like retinol, retinoic acid, and retinal. Vitamin A products are products used to accelerate cell turnover for preventive aging, anti-aging, reducing breakouts, or evening-out complexion. I wanted to write an informational blog post about these vitamin A products because so many people are using them in their skincare routines or are thinking about starting to incorporate some type of retinoid. This blog post will help you understand the different retinoid products better and help you make an informed decision about your skincare.
A couple of things I want to note before we get started ⤵️
You do not NEED a retinoid in your routine. You can get wonderful antiaging and skin-clearing results without using a retinoid product. So if these skincare ingredients don’t work well with your skin, that’s okay! You have other options.
If you’re using any type of vitamin A product, daily SPF is a MUST. You will damage your skin and cause pigment if you do not use daily SPF while on a retinoid product
scrub me secret: Most retinoid products are not meant to be used daily. You’ll want to remember these ingredients can be very sensitizing to the skin if used improperly. Less is more with these items and you will get your desired results with proper use vs. how often you use the product. We want our skin to be able to repair itself and not be in a constant state of cell turnover. Even if you only use your retinoid once a week you are still getting the benefits. Don’t push yourself to use more than your skin will tolerate.
Retinoid’s main function is to increase cell turnover. Here are the benefits and possible side effects we can see from this accelerated cell turnover.
How retinoids can benefit the skin:
Unclogs pores with debris and bacteria; Reduces breakouts and the size of cystic acne pimples.
Prevents degradation of collagen and elastin to help prevent signs of aging.
Fades acne scarring and reduces pigment caused by breakouts or picking.
Reduces the appearance of fine lines and deeper wrinkles
Possible retinoid side effects:
Red and irritated-looking skin or red, sensitive patches.
Dry, flaky, textured skin.
Small breakouts or little bumps due to sensitivity
A burning feeling when other products are applied. Or an overall feeling of discomfort.
Increase of pigment caused by UV rays due to the photosensitivity this ingredient causes.
scrub me secret: Retinoid products are potent items that if used too frequently or in dosages that are too high for your skin can result in these side effects. If you are experiencing any of these side effects first, I suggest taking down the number of times a week you are using your product. If that still doesn’t do the trick, lower your dosage or switch to a less intensive form of retinoid. If that still isn’t working, discontinue the use of retinol and opt for bakuchoil or other alternatives.
3 most well-known forms of retinoids
Retinol:
Retinol is the most widely known and used form of a retinoid in skincare products. Retinol can be found in many over-the-counter products. It's a less potent form compared to retinaldehyde and Retin-A. Once applied to the skin, retinol must undergo conversion into retinaldehyde and then into retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A) by enzymes in the skin. This conversion process is gradual and can take several steps, making retinol less irritating but also less potent than its more advanced forms. Even though retinol is the least irritating out of these 3 retinoid items listed, if used too often or in a concentration that’s too high for your skin it can still cause some of the sensitivity side effects.
scrub me secret: Bakuchoil is an ingredient that has been named the plant-based version of retinol. Bakuchoil has wrinkle reduction, skin firming, and preventative aging benefits like retinol does but it doesn’t have the same side effects like photo-sensitivity or irritation. It’s also pregnancy-safe!
Retin-A:
Retin-A, also known as Retinoic acid is the active form of vitamin A. This type of retinoid is the most potent but also the most irritating of the three derivatives. It directly binds to retinoic acid receptors in the skin, initiating cellular changes that promote skin renewal, collagen production, and overall skin improvement. Retin-A is often available only with a prescription and should be used minimally to receive your desired results. Not all skin types will function well using retinol, I always suggest lowering your usage or dosage or even switching to a less potent type of retinoid if your skin is feeling red, flaky, drier than usual, or if it sometimes burns when hydrating items are applied.
scrub me secret: tretinoin is another prescription form of retinoic acid. similar to Retin-A. These retinoic acid Prescriptions come in concentrations of 0.01%-0.1%. Always start off with a lower percentage.
Retinal/Retinaldehyde:
Retinaldehyde or retinal is a step closer to retinoic acid (Retin-A) in the conversion process compared to retinol. Once applied to the skin, it requires only one conversion step to become retinoic acid. This makes retinal more potent than retinol but typically less irritating than retinoic acid. It offers faster results than retinol but may still cause some irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. Retinal is found in many over-the-counter skincare items but is less common than retinol.
scrub me secret: There are other forms of retinoids other than the 3 I listed above. Skincare companies and product formulators are innovative and use scientific technologies to make products that have different forms of this vitamin A ingredient. It’s nice because there’s a wide range of retinoids from ones that are very mild and gentle to forms that are concentrated and intense. I find that the Josh Rosebrook active oil with a retinoic acid ester works best for myself.
Visit my blog post about product layering if you’re needing guidance of how to layer your retinoid or retinoid alternative product with your other skincare items.