Skin care layering - the proper order to apply your facial products.
You may have the perfect products in your skincare routine but if you don’t apply them in the right order or at the right times you aren’t getting the most benefit! Here I’m going over all the details of the correct order to layer your skincare and what products to use AM and PM. I also linked some helpful blog posts at the end for those that still need some guidance for their at-home skincare routine. Enjoy!
AM skincare products:
Oil cleanse (pre-cleanse):
If you aren’t beginning your skincare routine off with a pre-cleanse I highly suggest you start! This step uses an oil or cleansing balm as a way to attract surface oils and soften debris so it is easily removed without over-stressing the skin. It’s a helpful way to prep the skin and helps your cleanser can work better. I always use the nourishing serum for this step. Apply your oil or balm to your face and manipulate in small circular motions just like you would with an actual cleanser. Remove the pre-cleanse with a cotton pad or facial cloth.
scrub me secret: some skin types, like sensitive and dry, benefit more from an oil cleansing. If your skin is dry, sensitive, or in a sensitized state you can skip the next cleansing step and go straight into your toner or hydrosol after an oil cleansing. trust me, the pre-cleanse really does remove unwanted oils and debris so you can feel good about moving on to toner.
Cleanse:
A facial cleanser for this step can be a facial bar, creamy cleanser, gel cleanser, foamy cleanser, or gently exfoliating cleanser. Your cleanser type depends on your skin type or skin condition. Right now I am using PCA facial wash for this step, a Ph balancing gel cleanser. I also like to use Kalos Alpha Lyra cleanser when I want something more brightening. If you need help choosing a cleanser for your skin I linked some of my blog posts at the end that has suggestions and links for products. The best way to use your cleaner is to foam it up or manipulate it in your hands before applying it to your skin; rub in small circular motions all over your face. Remove your cleaner with lukewarm or cool water.
Toner or hydrosol:
The difference between toners and hydrosols is that toner is typically something astringent or has properties to control oil, it can also be a pH balancing fluid with a combination of ingredients that adds nutrients to the skin. A hydrosol is a water with distilled flower or plant extracts that helps add hydration to the skin. The most common hydrosol is rose water. I commonly refer to hydrosols as “hydrating toners” when I’m speaking with my clients or peers, that’s how I like to describe them. Hydrosols are great for dry skin, aging skin, or sensitive skin. I use rose water for this part of my routine. Toners are better for oily or congested skin types as well as those looking to even out complexion. I’ve been loving the PCA nutrient-rich toner lately for clearing skin. Saturate your skin with your hydrosol or toner, more saturation if you’re using a hydrosol. You’ll want your skin to feel damp, this will help the serums and moisturizers to sink in deeper.
AM Serums:
Vitamin C is a serum that’s best for morning use only. Applying this active, oxidizing ray fighting serum to your skin in the morning will ensure that you have an extra level of anti-aging defense under your SPF. While you will still receive the brightening benefits of vitamin C if you use it in the PM you won’t get the same level of defense during the day and that’s really what we need from a vitamin C serum. Other serums that can be used in the AM are anything hydrating or with hyaluronic acid, serums with peptides for anti-aging, and calming serums. Save your active serums and treatment serums for nighttime, this includes products with benzoyl peroxide, retinol, and glycolic acid. Apply your serums in order of thinnest solution to thickest. Allow your serum to sink in for just a few seconds before applying the next one. Serums are concentrated formulas so remember to just apply a small pea-sized amount.
scrub me secret: vitamin C doesn’t work well when paired with active serums, like ones that contain retinol. the retinol can degrade the vitamin C and cause it to become ineffective. However, Bakuchiol, a plant-based ingredient that mimics retinol works well with vitamin C and can also be used during the day. So if you have a Bakuchiol serum instead of retinol feel free to use it AM or PM.
Eye Cream:
Applying eye cream after serums is the best way to ensure every product is going to penetrate into the skin how it needs to. Apply a small amount of eye cream with your ring finger all-around your orbital bone (bone around the eye socket). Use a small light tapping motion when applying to simulate a little oxygen flow to the area. I suggest eye cream for every skin type, it’s a great way to prevent and treat aging in the eye area.
Moisturizer:
Moisturizer is thicker in weight than our serums and eye cream so we will always be applying it post-serums and eye cream. If your daily SPF is a hydrating or moisturizing SPF then you can skip this step of using a moisturizer in the AM and skip straight to the SPF step. If your sun protection is lightweight or doesn’t provide any hydrating properties then this is the time to apply your moisturizer. Make sure you’re using a moisturizer that fits your skin type. I like to use my fingertips to apply moisturizer in little dots in a few various places around the face and then gently rub it all in. Let it dry and absorb for about 30 seconds before applying SPF.
SPF:
Sun protection is a non-negotiable! This should be the last step of your skincare routine every day. If you do nothing else with your skin, cleansing and SPF should be on your must-to-do list. Applying SPF last will give you the coverage you need to block harmful UV rays from the sun and blue light from devices. Sunscreen is always last because we want it to be effective. You can apply makeup over SPF but you should wait a few minutes before starting your makeup application.
scrub me secret: want to upgrade your level of skin protection? Add blue light and pollution-blocking products to the last step of your routine. These facial mists and facial drops work to protect your skin from environmental pollution and harmful light that comes from our tech devices. I list some of my favorites in “7 Blue light blocking products for your skin & eyes”.
PM skincare products:
Oil cleanse (pre-cleanse):
This step is important for the PM because it acts as a removal for sweat, oils, and environmental debris as well as a makeup remover. An oil cleanse can easily remove all makeup including mascara and lipstick or lip stain. It’s a great way to prep the skin so your cleanser can actually cleanse the skin. Apply your oil or cleansing balm to your fingertips and then massage into your skin in circular motions, passing over the eye area (with eyes closed) if needing to cleanse away eye makeup. Remove with a cotton pad or facial cloth.
Cleanse:
Cleanse with your facial bar, gel, creamy, or foaming cleanser. Your cleanser should not be stripping your oils or making your skin feel overly cleansed or red. The balancing facial bar I make for scrub me is a great bar for most skin types if you’re not sure what cleanser to choose. Massage cleanser into your skin and remove with lukewarm or cool water.
scrub me secret: do you have an at-home facial steamer? During your PM cleansing is the perfect time to use it. I don’t suggest daily use but you can do this once or twice a week to give yourself a deeper cleanse and soften skin. I list an at-home facial steamer I like in my “Esthetician recommended facial tools” blog post.
Exfoliate (not suggested daily):
After cleansing in the PM is the best time to exfoliate, this way you can follow up with balancing toner, treatment serums, moisturizers and then let your skin rest. Exfoliation comes in a few different methods. There is a physical exfoliation that comes from a facial scrub, a facial brush, or a silicon exfoliating tool like a Foreo. This type of exfoliation is good for clearing away dry skin, softening skin, and creating circulation that brings anti-aging benefits. Depending on your skin type, physical exfoliation is recommended 2-5x a week. Chemical exfoliation is when an AHA like lactic or glycolic or retinol is used to create cell turnover. These types of exfoliation are usually in a mask or serum form. Depending on your skin type and the potency of the ingredients you will use a product like this 2-5x a week. Rinse away your exfoliating mask or scrub with lukewarm water or use a clean facial cloth. If your exfoliation method comes in the form of a serum or fluid save this step until after toner.
Toner or hydrosol:
Post-cleansing and exfoliating (exfoliation optional) is the best time for the toning step. Just as stated in your AM skincare routine, you will choose a toner or hydrating hydrosol water to saturate your skin with. If you have a toner product that contains an ingredient like glycolic, lactic, benzoyl peroxide, or salicylic this is the best time to use it. You can even saturate your skin with hydrating rose water or calming CBD toner and then apply your fluid with active ingredients in it.
scrub me secret: if you’re using a toner fluid in the PM that contains an active exfoliating or skin-clearing ingredient let your skin dry fully before moving onto your serums. If you’re using your regular hydrosol, nutrient toner, CBD toner, witch hazel, or whatever you have you can leave your skin a little damp before applying serums. This is because we want to actives to have time to neutralize a little bit before applying other serums. Other toners we use contain a lot of water and that helps the serums and moisturizers to work better.
PM Serums:
Nighttime is the time to use your active serums and acne spot treatments if you’re using anything like this. Start with any serums you have that use active acids or acne-clearing ingredients. As stated in the exfoliation section, products with retinol or glycolic acid shouldn’t be used every day as this could sensitize your skin. Every skin type is different but I suggest retinol no more than 3x a week, that’s just my personal opinion. Let these serums dry and become matte feeling on your skin before you move onto other serums. Any other hydrating, skin-strengthening or peptide serums should be applied in order of thinnest to thickest. Vitamin C serum should not be used at night, save it for the AM.
Eye cream:
Same order as the AM routine! Eye cream is best applied after serums and before moisturizers. I’ve been using eye cream pretty consistently in both my morning and nighttime skincare routine for almost a decade and I really attribute my lack of fine lines, sagging skin, and crows feet to this consistency. Finding a great eye cream that works for you and committing to using it AM and PM every day will give you the best results.
Moisturizer:
After your serums and eye cream have been absorbed for 30-60 seconds you can choose to use a heavier weight moisturizer with more hydration or collagen renewal benefits in your PM routine or you can use a lightweight balancing one. Whichever you choose for your skin type a moisturizer following cleansing and serums is a must for balancing and restoring skin. The amount of moisturizer you use should be about the size of a Hershey kiss.
Facial oil (optional):
Facial oils are always last because they are used as an occlusive, meaning they create a barrier around your serums and moisturizer and help the products absorb deeply. Facial oils are skin nourishing oils that are non-comedogenic meaning they will not clog your pores, even if you have acne or oily skin. Popular oils for the face are jojoba, argan, and grape-seed. The nourishing serum is my go-to facial oil.
scrub me secret: if you’re including facial massage into your skincare routine it is best done after your cleansing and before toner. after cleansing, you can apply your facial massage oil and perform your facial massage movements with your hands or preferred facial tool. when you are finished apply your toner with a cotton round using it t wipe away the facial oil from the massage. apply another round of toner before you continue the rest of your routine.
Need help choosing products for your skincare routine? Blog posts like “8 Complexion clearing tips from an esthetician”, “Tips for optimizing your at-home skincare routine”, and “From the owner: my daily skincare” all have great product recommendations for all skin types. Or you can visit me at scrub me skin care studio located in Chicago to have a one on one product consultation!