Clear Skin All Summer: Acne Tips & Remedies That Help
Clear skin and an even complexion are always the goal, right? But for a lot of people, getting skin to behave properly and to be completely breakout-free is difficult. Factors like hormones, sweat, a humid or polluted environment, and certain skincare/makeup products can cause blackheads and whiteheads and aggravate or worsen cystic acne.
In my 16 years as an esthetician, I have learned that treating acne isn’t one-size-fits-all, BUT there are a few treatment methods and skincare routine tweaks I have found that work to clear breakouts for many people. We’re talking less congestion, less inflamed acne, less irritation, and a healthier complexion!
scrub me secret: As an esthetician and not a medical professional like a dermatologist or doctor, I do not have the expertise or licensing to diagnose specific skin conditions or recommend/prescribe certain acne treatments. But what I do have is a wider range of knowledge of specific skincare items and ways to treat acne that are not medical. I often find that my clients who are seeing a dermatologist for their acne also benefit from having me, their esthetician, to give them better skincare product and device recommendations because that is my area of expertise. Having both a dermatologist and an esthetician is ideal.
Why am I breaking out?
Hormonal acne and breakouts caused by dietary issues are the most common types of acne that I see. These cystic pustules, deep whiteheads, and inflamed breakouts are caused by internal fluctuations and functions in the body. I didn’t include hormones and diet as causes of breakouts in my list below because that type of acne is a bit more nuanced.
scrub me secret: I’ve treated all different types of acne and breakouts! I’m listing all my best tips for clearing acne later in my blog, but let me tell you, blue LED plus infrared light has always worked!
Things that could be causing you more blackheads and whiteheads 👀
Silicon-based primers or moisturizers, heavy balms, or waxy skincare/makeup items
Even though silicon skincare ingredients (dimethicone is most popular) are gentle, breathable, and said to be non-pore clogging, they can trap debris and sweat in the pores, especially if worn during a sweaty activity or on a hot/humid day. Breakout-prone and acneic skin types should avoid skincare with silicon-based ingredients.
Sweat mixed with debris from the environment
Exercising and spending time getting movement outdoors is great for both our mental and physical health. But not so great for our skin health. Sweat mixed with environmental debris, like pollution, dirt, or dust in the air, can settle into the pores and cause buildup that can turn into blackheads or whiteheads. Get your skin clean as soon as possible after a sweat session, hypochlorous mist will be your best friend.
scrub me secret: Hypochlorous acid defends against bacteria and infection. So, misting your sweaty face or body with this ingredient will kill the bacteria, leading to fewer or no breakouts from sweat and exercise.
Not properly cleansing at the end of each day
Clusters of blackheads and congestion are often the product of not cleansing your skin properly. This could mean skipping cleansing some evenings (big no!), or this could mean not cleansing thoroughly enough. Remember, cleanse for 40+ seconds all over your face and neck, covering every area. I also feel like everyone benefits so much from double cleansing. Using a cleansing balm or oil before a traditional facial cleanser. This gets your skin CLEAN without stripping your barrier. [Read this short blog post on double cleansing]
Cleansing TOO much + overuse of astringent or exfoliating products
Clearing too often (more than 2x a day), using a cleanser that is too harsh, exfoliating too often, using a toner that strips your barrier, or using too many exfoliating products can destroy your skin barrier and make it unable to heal and more prone to red, angry breakouts. [This blog post details how to properly exfoliate]
Touching or picking at your face
Popping a pimple is tempting, but in reality, you’re spreading bacteria to other places in proximity to the breakout, and you’re creating an open wound that will heal more slowly and be susceptible to collecting more bacteria.
Wearing hats, helmets, or face coverings that are sweaty or dirty
Hats, helmets, goggles, and any other type of clothing or gear that touches your face should be washed, cleaned with a sanitizing wipe, or sprayed with rubbing alcohol after every use. Debris like sweat, oils, and dirt can build up on these items and cause breakouts and blackheads.
scrub me secret: I wash my exercise hats after every use, daytime baseball caps are washed every couple of uses, sunglasses are always wiped down with a rubbing alcohol wipe, and the same goes for my bike helmet. My husband doesn’t wash his baseball caps as much as I do, and he often gets little pimples on his temples.
My Go-To Ways for Clearing Acne and Breakouts
Blue LED Therapy (with optional infrared light)
Blue LED light therapy treats acne by creating an oxygen-rich environment where bacteria cannot live and grow. Blue LED lightwaves penetrate into the skin without causing irritation to help reduce bacteria that cause acne. I find that it takes a few LED treatments to start seeing results, but the results really are amazing. My clients see a large reduction in their breakouts and cystic acne after a few facials with blue LED therapy.
Infrared light is a type of red light therapy that reduces inflammation and accelerates healing. This can be really helpful for healing acne, especially when blended with blue LED. Those who are sensitive to heat or warmth might not respond to infrared well, but everyone else benefits from the healing and anti-inflammatory properties.
Cycling Your Acids and Vitamin A
If you have a breakout-prone skin type or are struggling with acne, you may have multiple products in your routine with salicylic acid, AHA’s (alpha-hydroxy-acids), fruit enzymes, and maybe even a retinoid or prescription retinol product like Tretinoin or Differin. Overuse or using too many of these items in one session will most likely cause sensitivity and barrier damage that leads to more breakouts or breakouts that just don’t heal. I will often guide my clients to take down daily use of exfoliants and cycle their acids and/or retinol by using certain products on certain days. Example: 10% AHA fluid is used on Sunday and Tuesday, while Salicylic serum is used on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday. And prescription retinol on Saturday. My blog on skin cycling explains this in further detail.
scrub me secret: Something we need to remember about retinol products is that they make our skin more prone to sun damage. We never want to use retinol skincare during the day because it can lead to easy sunburns and unwanted pigment in certain areas of your face. But also want to remember to be extra careful about sun exposure and sun protection, even if you are using retinol skincare in your evening routine. Always wear hats, sit in the shade when you can, and wear daily SPF.
Add Healing Items to Your Routine
Healing, antioxidant-rich, calming skincare items are really great for helping to clear the complexion. Ingredients like honey, vitamin E, green tea extract, and certain botanicals help the skin heal and repair itself. This results in accelerated healing of breakout spots, less pigmentation from acne, and softer/healthier-feeling skin. I often suggest adding a serum, mask, or PM moisturizer with healing honey or antioxidants, or both!
I really like Therapi Honey Moisturizer, Josh Rosebrook Vitamin C Serum, and Wilding Repair Mask. There are SO many amazing healing and calming items out there. I could probably list 50.
scrub me secret: The popular pimple patches, both clear and colorful, contain an ingredient called hydrocolloid. This is a wound-healing ingredient that helps reduce bacteria in the area and also accelerates healing. Thats how they work!
Have 2 Different Toners
This is a small skincare routine tweak that makes a big difference for my clients with acne and breakouts! Use a brightening or slightly astringent toner in the morning and use a calming, hydrating toner in the evening. This combination balances, strengthens, reduces inflammation, and heals skin. Allowing it to function better, absorb serums more deeply, and look more even and clear.
My favorite toners for morning: Josh Rosebrook Acid Toner or Good Molecules Niacinamide Toner
My favorite toners for night: scrub me skin care CBD toner, Good Molecules Essence, Wildling HydraSoothe Tonic
Get Monthly Facials
Seeing a skilled esthetician for monthly facials will help reduce congestion and breakouts greatly. Each month, your esthetician will gently and professionally extract any blackheads, whiteheads, and other congestion that is ready to come out of your pores. These extractions cannot be done at home, as you would cause damage and possibly spread bacteria. Cystic acne can be spot-treated and treated with LED therapy. The goal is for most of the congestion to never return, and when a whitehead or cystic breakout does come, it’s much more manageable. Each time you come for a facial, your esthetician can review your progress and your current skincare routine to make sure everything is going well and on track for healthy, clearer skin.
scrub me secret: If you’re in Boulder, CO or near Boulder, CO, I could be your new esthetician 😊✨
Tips For Reducing Summer Breakouts and Blackheads
Switch to a daytime gel moisturizer
Think calming hydration but SUPER lightweight, like basically nothing “coating” the surface of your skin. A gel moisturizer will ensure you get healing and balancing hydration without trapping in any sweat, oils, or debris.
2 gel moisturizers I LOVE: Kinship Supermellow and Peach & Lily Water Glass Moisturizer
Use a lightweight SPF or gel SPF
A lot of SPFs can be a bit thick or heavy feeling. Even though some of these thicker-textured SPFs are not known to cause acne, it’s still better to use something lightweight and breathable if you struggle with acne, whiteheads, or a lot of blackheads.
BYOMA Gel SPF is a favorite among my clients.
scrub me secret: Innis Free sensitive skin mineral SPF isn’t a gel SPF product, but it’s incredibly lightweight and works great for breakout-prone skin. It’s a good option if you want a completely mineral SPF.
Hypochlorous mist is your bestie (especially if you get sweaty)
Hypochlorous mist is an anti-microbial mist that you can use to kill bacteria, but it doesn’t dry your skin out.
This is great to have on hand if you don’t have time to bathe or shower directly after exercise. You can wipe away your sweat with a towel and then mist your face and body. It’s also a helpful item to have if you are outside and sweating all day or for hours and hours. You can mist yourself every 1-2 hours. I also love it after a hot yoga class or after a sauna session if I’m not showering at the facility; I’ll mist myself before I get in the car to come home.
I like the Prequel Hypochlorous Mist and Magic Molecule Mist.
Skip the beauty balm or cream blush - Opt for a well-formulated powder bronzer or blush
Even non-comedogenic beauty balms and cream makeup products can trap oils and sweat into pores or aggravate current breakouts, especially in hot summer months. Using a powder bronzer or blush will allow for your pores to be able to breath better. Always apply using a clean makeup brush!
I really like Kosas Bronzer, and Jane Iredale makes some great powder blushes and foundations.
Double cleanse every night
I touched upon this in the section above, “Why am I breaking out?” Oftentimes, blackheads, closed comedones, and little whiteheads are the culprit of skin not getting properly cleansed. A double cleanse, using a pre-cleanse balm or oil, followed by a traditional gel or creamy facial cleanser, is THE way to get your pores clean and debris-free. Oil and certain fats attract other oils, soften debris, and mop up debris without stripping the barrier. So do that first and then follow up using your traditional facial cleanser, and that can get your pores actually clean without having to break out through any sweat, makeup, SPF, etc.
The Nourishing Serum Facial Oil I make is my go-to pre-cleansing oil. Josh Rosebrook also makes a lovely pre-cleanse balm.
scrub me secret: I wrote a blog post that has more details about double cleansing and has a step-by-step of how to double cleanse. I send this to so many of my clients!
Those are my best acne and breakout-clearing tips!
If you need more guidance on a basic skin care routine, visit any of these blog posts:
Skincare Routine Order: The Most Important Steps for Clear, Healthy Skin
What Your Skin Needs at Every Age: A Complete Skincare Timeline