Enzymes, AHAs, BHAs & PHAs: Everything You Need to Know About Exfoliation
Enzymes and exfoliating acids are ingredients worth knowing about! When added to skincare items, these ingredients can help soften, smooth, and brighten your skin. However, if used too often, incorrectly, or if you don’t select the right ingredient for your skin, you could end up damaging your skin’s barrier and overall healthy functions. As always, I’m your skincare guru here to guide you on the best path! After this blog post, you’ll have a better idea of how to incorporate these ingredients into your skincare routine, and you’ll learn which types of enzymes and exfoliating acids are best for you. Maybe you’ll even leave with the takeaway that your skin doesn’t really need these ingredients at all💡
scrub me secret: In the esthetics world, there are 2 types of exfoliation: Chemical exfoliation and physical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation means to slough away dead skin cells with skincare ingredients like exfoliating acids and enzymes. These acids and enzymes eat up dead skin cells and stimulate cell turnover. Physical exfoliation means to slough away dead skin cells using a scrub product. Physical exfoliation is also great for a circulation boost. Chemical exfoliation uses acidic ingredients to exfoliate, and physical exfoliation uses a scrub to remove dead cells.
My number 1 tip about enzymes and exfoliating acids
Don’t overuse your exfoliants. Using your exfoliating skincare more often will not make your skin softer. Using a chemical or physical exfoliant too often can lead to a disrupted skin barrier and/or damaged skin. Too much cell turnover, or using an exfoliant when there are very few dead cells to dissolve, usually leads to red, bumpy, tight, and very sensitive skin. You can read my blog post about over-exfoliation to help decipher if your skin suffers from this problem. I usually suggest exfoliation 1-3x a week for most of my clients.
What are Enzymes in Skincare
Enzymes are ingredients derived from fruits that dissolve dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and promote cell turnover. Enzymes are typically more gentle on the skin vs. AHAs and other exfoliating acids. Enzymes are great for keeping skin bright and radiant.
Different types of skincare enzymes:
Papaya (Papain) -
Papaya enzyme, or papain, as you might see it on your ingredients label, gently exfoliates dead skin cells to reveal a brighter, smoother complexion. It helps unclog pores and encourages cell turnover, leaving your skin feeling soft and refreshed. Plus, it’s packed with vitamins A and C, so it naturally supports glowing, even-toned skin. Think of it as a gentle reset button for dull or tired skin. I use a papaya enzyme from PCA skin during a lot of my custom facials.
Pumpkin (Cucurbita Pepo) -
Pumpkin is a popular fruit enzyme that contains natural alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) that help improve skin texture and clarity. It's loaded with antioxidants like beta-carotene and vitamin C to brighten and protect. The natural enzymes help slough off dead skin while deeply nourishing with zinc and essential fatty acids. I find that pumpkin enzymes are typically better suited for more resilient skin types, as they can be less gentle than the enzymes I mention here.
Pineapple (Bromelain) -
Pineapple contains bromelain, an enzyme that gently exfoliates by breaking down proteins that trap dead skin cells, making your skin look more radiant and smooth. With its high vitamin C content, pineapple also supports collagen production by protecting and preserving it, and it also helps to brighten dark spots.
Kiwi (Actinidin) -
Kiwi enzyme or actinidin, a natural enzyme that helps renew skin by exfoliating away dead cells. It’s also rich in antioxidants and vitamin E, which support elasticity and hydration. Kiwi works wonders for dehydrated, dry, and dull skin, giving it a hydrated, healthy-looking glow. Plus, it’s super gentle, making it perfect for sensitive skin types too.
scrub me secret: So now we know when used on your skin, enzymes break down and eat up debris. Internally (inside our bodies), they have a similar function! Enzymes inside our body break down proteins and fats that we eat so they can make their way to our intestines, where our body can process them further.
AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) Skincare
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, or AHAs, are chemical exfoliants that work to dissolve dead skin cells and promote cell turnover in the process. AHAs penetrate the skin layers more deeply than enzymes, which just exfoliate the epidermis. Alpha Hydroxy acids also help draw moisture to the skin’s surface while also exfoliating. This makes AHAs best for dry, sensitive, aging, and dull skin.
Different types of AHAs:
Lactic Acid -
Lactic acid is derived from fermented sugars or milk (vegan versions use sugar beets!). Lactic acid exfoliates while also drawing moisture to our skin, making it a great choice for dry, mature, or dull skin. It sloughs off dead skin cells to reveal brighter, more hydrated skin underneath. Plus, it supports a healthy skin barrier, keeping your complexion smooth and supple. Because of my dry and sensitive skin, lactic acid is one of my favorite chemical exfoliants.
Glycolic Acid -
Glycolic acid is one of the most effective AHAs for exfoliation, known for its tiny molecules that can penetrate skin quickly and turn cells over. It’s ideal for smoothing skin and reducing texture from breakouts. It’s also a nice exfoliation option for more resilient skin types.
Malic Acid -
Malic acid is an AHA derived from apples that offers a mild exfoliation while boosting hydration, similar to lactic acid. It helps smooth skin texture and even out tone without being too harsh. It’s great for sensitive skin types who want to target pigment or uneven tone in the skin.
Mandelic Acid -
Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds, known for its larger molecular size (like the PHAs I’ll talk about later), which means it penetrates the skin more slowly and gently. Because of its antibacterial properties, mandelic acid is ideal for addressing buildup, congestion, and breakouts without irritation. I would suggest this for someone with breakout-prone, acneic, or combination skin that needs some type of exfoliation in their routine.
scrub me secret: Since enzymes and AHA are more gentle, they can be used in your AM skincare routine, as long as you wear moisturizer and SPF. And I have a secret tip for you! If you use an enzyme product or a lactic acid product before you apply your vitamin C serum, it helps the vitamin C work its magic even better!
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) Skincare
Beta Hydroxy acids, or BHAs, are exfoliating acids that also work to control oils in the skin. BHAs break down dead skin cells, debris in the pores, and dissolve excess oils. Beta Hydroxy acids are best for oily, congested, and acneic skin.
Different types of BHAs:
Salicylic Acid -
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid best known for its deep-cleansing powers. It works inside the pores to dissolve excess oil and debris, making it amazing for blemish-prone or congested skin. It helps smooth texture and refine pores for a more even complexion. This is a great addition to anyone’s skincare routine who is struggling with congestion and/or textured skin due to buildup.
Willow bark extract -
Willow bark extract is nature’s gentle version of salicylic acid. Willow bark slowly releases salicin, which is then absorbed by the skin. It offers mild exfoliation and pore-clearing benefits while also calming inflammation. With its soothing properties, it’s more gentle than salicylic acid. Willow bark is a great choice for acneic skin types or congested skin that is also sensitive. Willowbark can also be an excellent ingredient for the skin on your body.
scrub me secret: The skin on our bodies has larger pores than our face and usually produces more oil and sweat. If you find yourself struggling with stubborn body acne or pimples, a BHA body wash might be the perfect thing for you! This type of body wash will control oils and break down debris and excess oil in your pores. I like Naturium SA body wash. To learn more about body breakouts and bumps on the body, visit my blog post about Textured skin on the body.
PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acid) Skincare
Polyhydroxy Acids or PHAs are exfoliating acids that treat our skin similarly to AHAs, but they are more gentle and work more slowly. A PHA molecule is bigger than an AHA molecule, meaning that it doesn’t travel deep into the skin as quickly. Because these PHA molecules are released into our skin at a slower rate, they are more gentle on our skin. PHAs are great for sensitive and mature skin types. I’ve also found that they pair well with BHAs for those experiencing acne.
Different types of PHAs:
Gluconolactone -
Gluconolactone is a commonly used, super-gentle PHA that exfoliates without irritation, making it a favorite for sensitive or reactive skin types. Or those who don’t tolerate exfoliation well. It not only smooths texture but also hydrates and strengthens the skin’s barrier. Plus, it’s a natural antioxidant, which helps protect against environmental stressors. This would be a great option for those with mature or sensitive skin that also feels dull and dry.
Galactosen -
Galactose is a PHA derived from milk sugars, similar to lactic acid. It helps gently exfoliate while supporting the skin's natural healing and moisture-retention abilities. Its calm nature makes it a great option for those with rosacea, sensitivity, or compromised barriers.
Lactobionic -
Lactobionic acid is a PHA known for attracting and locking in moisture while gently exfoliating your skin. It’s rich in antioxidants and supports healthy collagen, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines. Because it’s so hydrating, it leaves your skin looking plump, smooth, and naturally dewy.
scrub me secret: Visit my blog post on PHAs for a deeper dive on this ingredient and more product recommendations ✨
My Favorite Enzymes and Exfoliating Acid Products
Maya Chia Refresh Mint Mask
This mask is great for all skin types, but especially nice for dry, dull, or sensitive skin. Powered by a blend of azelaic, salicylic, lactic, enzymes, and hydrating hyaluronic acid, this mask gently resurfaces, brightens, and adds hydration to your skin. This refreshing mask also helps reduce the appearance of pores and promotes a smoother, more clarified look.
I would suggest using this mask once weekly.
True Botanicals At-Home Peel
A blend of AHAs, PHA, and BHA is the perfect potent combination of ingredients that refines pores, brightens, and softens your skin. This is a great product for reducing texture in the skin, evening out complexion, and erasing pigment spots that come from breakouts. Added aloe and rosemary create hydrating balance for your skin.
I would suggest using a product like this once weekly or every 10 days.
Herbivore Blue Tansy Clarity Mask
This BHA and enzyme mask is perfect for congested, acneic, or oily skin. Willow bark dissolves debris on the skin and in the pores and absorbs excess oils. Fruit enzymes soften and smooth your skin’s surface. Added blue tansy helps calm skin and reduce redness.
I would suggest using a product like this once weekly or every 10 days.
Josh Rosebrook Daily Acid Toner
This exfoliating fluid has a small amount of glycolic acid, malic acid, and citric acid. These AHAs are gentle, and especially gentle on the skin when a product has low percentages of these acid ingredients. This would be a perfect item to add to your skincare routine to boost your skin’s radiance, or if you want your serums to absorb better. I personally use this item every other day.
You can use this product daily or every other day for very sensitive skin types.
Naturium Glycolic Acid Body Wash
A glycolic acid body wash is helpful for smoothing skin on your body. Glycolic acid dissolves surface cells to reduce bumpy texture or keratosis pilaris bumps. It can also be great for brightening dry or dull skin. It’s best to use a moisturizing body soap on the days you don’t use this glycolic wash.
You would use a product like this 2-3x a week.
Something else exciting about these chemical exfoliant ingredients? There are many professional products that utilize enzymes, AHAs, PHAs, and BHA to refresh, renew, clear, brighten, and rejuvenate the skin. In my treatment room at scrub me skin care studio I love seeing the results from professional exfoliating products from lines like PCA, Josh Rosebrook, and SkinScript. Come for a visit and see all that we can do for your skin!